Ride across Canada 1 - Mile Zero, Victoria to Winnipeg
Mile Zero Monument Victoria - Nanaimo - Horseshoe Bay - Vancouver - Hope - Manning Park - Princeton - Keremos - Kelowna - Revelstoke - Lake Louise - Banff - Calgary - Medicine Hat - Regina - Winnipeg - Thunder Bay - Sault Ste Marie - Sudbury - Ottawa - Montreal - Quebec City - Rivière-du-Loup - Cap Chat - Gaspe - Campbeltown - Bathurst - Dalhousie - Shediac - Charlottetown - Green Gables Heritage Place - Wood Islands - Pictou - Aulds Cove - Iona - Sydney - Channel-Port aux Basques - Stephenville Crossing - Corner Brook - Deer Lake - Grand Falls-Windsor - Gander - Clarenville - Whitebourne - St. John's - Mile Zero Monument St. John's.
"Why cycle across Canada?"
"It's a huge country - St. John's is really far..."
"Aren't you scared of bears when you camp?"
"Are you doing this for charity?"
People ask me these questions constantly during my trip. Even when I do not have perfect answers, their kindness and genuine curiosity always warms my heart.
I had always wanted to cycle across the entire country. I had done a few shorter trips in Canada before, but this felt different - bigger. With the pandemic winding down, I was craving a long adventure, and I already had a Canadian visa. Perfect timing.
So I decided to bike from St. John's to Vancouver, east to west. I did not really have a clear route planned, but I booked the flights anyway - that is how these things start, right?
Then reality slapped me: I needed a Schengen visa for those European layovers. Had to cancel everything. Decided to plan for the future instead.
A few days later, I could not stop thinking about the trip. Even though there were wildfires happening in Canada, I decided to go ahead. So I booked the ticket again, this time a direct flight through Dubai. But I changed my plan - Vancouver to St. John's instead. West to east.
That is how it began. Left Bangalore, flew to Dubai, then Montreal, finally Vancouver. Suzanne, my host, welcomed me at the airport and showed me around the city. Staying downtown made it easy to grab gear and prep my bike.
Instead of starting from downtown though, I wanted to start from Mile Zero in Victoria and end at Mile Zero in St. John's. Coast to coast, the full Canadian experience.
Day 1: Vancouver downtown to Mile Zero.
I woke up at 4am to start my journey and it hit me.. I would have to do this every day for weeks. But I was ready for it. The traffic was crazy, but there was enough space on the side of the road to get out of the city. I was heading to Tsawwassen ferry terminal to catch the ferry to Swartz Bay, Victoria.
On my way to Tsawwassen Terminal to catch the ferry to Victoria.
The ferry costs just 20 dollars, and bicycles ride free… perfect for cyclists like me. It takes about an hour and thirty minutes across the water.
Got to Swartz Bay and my host messaged me immediately with directions. Once I figured out where I was staying, I decided to take it slow and explore Victoria.
I could not resist stopping here for lunch with such a beautiful view. While I was eating, a couple of people stopped to chat. They were curious about my travels and wished me luck. They even shared some helpful tips about the bike paths in Victoria.
My host in Saanich made my stay truly delightful with cozy accommodations and served up some wholesome, delicious meals.
Day 2: Mile Zero to Nanaimo.
The bike trail to Mile Zero was wonderful. Seeing all the morning people on the trail made me happy. The trail was beautifully maintained, with clear signs at every turn.
Mile Zero! It felt wonderful to be there and realise that I am about to start a long adventure journey. I had been imagining being in front of that sign, and here I am.
Mile Zero is the official starting point of the Trans-Canada Highway and the awesome statue of Terry Fox.
Terry Fox was a young and athletic man whose right leg was amputated due to cancer. He believed it was his mission to show the challenges that other cancer patients face, and to challenge what people thought about those with missing legs. Terry declared he would run across Canada - a distance of over 4,500 miles - in 1980. He covered two-thirds of the way on his 'Marathon of Hope,' but the cancer returned and he passed away. Even though he did not reach his destination, Canada saw Terry's effort as a victory. A statue in his honor stands at the spot he aimed to reach.
Respect…
After good time at Mile Zero, I headed toward Nanaimo. I had arranged a place to stay and started riding on beautiful bike trails. But my bike started giving me trouble on the way. I stopped to check what was wrong and discovered the crankset was almost completely worn out. Only solution... go back to Vancouver for a new one. This was crazy. Day two of my adventure and I was already having major problems. I could not help but wonder how I would make it to St. Johns with my bike in this condition.
Evening came as I finally reached Nanaimo.
A cyclist from Nanaimo was kind enough to host me for the night and made me a delicious Korean meal.
Day 3: Nanaimo to North Vancouver.
The next day, I took a ferry from Nanaimo to Horseshoe Bay to reach Vancouver. Right after getting off the ferry, I thought it would be a good idea to go to North Vancouver and find a bike shop. I needed to fix all the problems before continuing my journey east. Tom and his family were amazing hosts. They set up a lovely tent in their backyard for me to stay in while I sorted out my bike. They even took me to several bike shops in Vancouver to help me find the right crankset and other gear, like bear spray and a gas canister.
Day 6: Vancouver to Hope.
After three days in Vancouver fixing my bike and getting supplies, I continued my journey east.
It looks like ‘Mission and Hope’ were also in the same direction. Even though it started raining in the morning, it did not bother me much. It truly felt like the official beginning of my adventure.
I found this place to stop for breakfast.
I discovered blackberries all over the roadside and ended up picking a bunch. They became a major part of my daytime snacks.
Sufficient shoulder width for cycling and a pleasant scenery.
While getting ready for this trip, I heard a lot about the wildfires in Canada. My family worried about wildfires and bears, my biggest concern was having enough room on the highway shoulders to ride safely.
I reached Hope just before dark and found a camping area. I spent the night camping for 20 dollars... shower included. Cooked my dinner in the fading light and walked along the river nearby.
Day 7: Hope to Coldspring Campground, Manning Park.
Leaving Hope early in the morning, I knew today would be about climbing big mountains. The road started going up after just a short distance. The difficulty began right away.
Riding between the wall on my right and the rumble strip on my left was tough. With all the traffic, I quickly saw why a mirror was so important. I also realized I was not in good enough shape for these mountain climbs. I would need some days to get stronger.
Friendly reminder... you are in bear country now. Stay safe!
Day 9: Old Hedley Road East Recreation Site to Peachland.
I was going to ride to Keremeos and then Osoyoos, but wildfires changed my plans. Someone warned me about fires along that route, so I decided to go to Kelowna instead and explore near Banff National Park.
After leaving Keremeos and riding a few kilometers, I decided to skip the highway and take the Great Mountain Road bike path to Kelowna instead.
Choosing this road was such a great decision! As soon as I started traveling on it, it became so peaceful and quiet, with with beautiful valleys and rivers.
I got my first flat tire during the ride. Fixed it fast and continued on. With no traffic around, I just used the road to repair my bicycle.
Just before reaching Pentington, I noticed a series of signboards like this.
Stopped at Tim Hortons in Penticton to search for a place to stay... host or campground, anything. No luck finding anything, so I decided to keep riding and hope for the best.
Okanagan Lake
Left Penticton and hit this challenging stretch... beautiful lake on the right, heavy traffic on the left. Plan was to ride until dark and find somewhere to camp. It was tough to move forward because the shoulder was very narrow due to the wall on my right. I had to balance carefully to avoid hitting my bags and protect myself from the fast moving vehicles.
After a few kilometers, I discovered a bike trail on the right. Unfortunately, it was very short, so I decided to continue on the main road.
I looked everywhere for a place to set up camp, but unfortunately, I could not find a good spot.
The view of Okanagan Lake… absolutely breathtaking!
Rode a few kilometers in the dark and finally reached Peachland. Instead of immediately searching for camping, I relaxed by the lake with snacks and talked to locals. Some people suggested setting up near the lake after midnight, but I was not comfortable with that. Waited until 1 am... no luck. Decided to ride further along the lake, away from town. A couple kilometers later, I spotted an abandoned property in a residential area. Perfect for stealth camping. Quietly set up my tent and planned to leave before sunrise.
Day 10: Peachland to Lake Country.
Since I only got 3 hours of sleep, I decided to take a short ride and find either a host or a camping spot. Found a host near Lake Country after riding through Kelowna. While resting by the lake on their property, this strange fog appeared over the water. Realized it was smoke from wildfires down near Penticton.
The moon turned a shade of red due to the wildfire.
Day 11: Lake Country to Revelstoke.
My host suggested the Okanagan Rail Trail, so I decided to try it. What an incredible ride! I loved meeting other daily cyclists along the way.
Railtrail Cafe! Their coffee and muffins are simply amazing!
Conditions were perfect, comfortable pace, feeling strong. Decided to push it and go for Revelstoke.
I stopped for another cup of coffee at a roadside park.
Stopped at this hotel to grab water for camping... in case I did not reach Revelstoke before dark.
Finally reached Revelstoke just before sunset. What a day! Longest stretch of the trip so far... 182 km. Spent some time looking for camping close to town and ended up at one of the proper campgrounds.
The main reason I picked this campsite was the shared kitchen. Great place to cook and meet other travelers. I learned a lot about different routes and good hosts from talking to people.
Day 12: Revelstoke to Loop Brook Campground.
As soon as I left Revelstoke, the road became steep. The scenery was incredible... huge mountains, green valleys, perfect sunshine.
Welcome to the breathtaking Rocky Mountains region!
It is similar to a tunnel, but this is a concrete structure built above ground to cover the road and protect drivers from avalanches.
Riding through the tunnel was too dangerous... fast traffic, no space, especially when large trucks passed by. I decided to get off and push my bike through for safety.
Train tracks following this beautiful valley and river. What an amazing train ride that must be!
I found a beautiful campground in the valley with a nice view of a glacier nearby.
Bear proof food locker. Used in campgrounds to store food and anything else that might attract bears.
. . Run Forrest? Run!!
Day 13: Loop Brook Campground to Golden.
I arrived in Golden in the evening and found a lovely campsite by the river (Golden Municipal Campground). Luckily, I was able to visit IGA and buy food for the upcoming days.
Day 14: Golden to Canmore.
The moment I left Golden, steep climbing began. Now I understand why they call it 'Kicking Horse Pass'… it definitely kicks you!
Climbing big hills feels much easier now than last week. I am slowly getting stronger at these challenges. Plus, the wide shoulder space makes cycling way more fun.
Crossed the river to grab coffee on the opposite side. What a find... this lovely little town with amazing coffee shops.
I could not stop staring at that beautiful lake... just sat there with my snacks for the longest time.
The cycling was perfect... amazing light, incredible views, and wide shoulders. I kept stopping to take in the beauty of this landscape.
The day was perfect for riding, and my goal was to reach Banff and find a place to camp.
Welcome to Canada!
I waited for a long time, but I could not get a picture without people around. There was a line of people waiting to take photos in front of this sign. Then I got this picture with this family and realized it was more beautiful with people in it. Sometimes what you get is better than what you planned.
Banff is a popular destination with stunning mountain views. I walked around town taking in the sights and looking for camping options. After calling a few campgrounds, I found out everything was completely booked.
Stopped for coffee at Tim Hortons and met a local who recommended Canmore nearby. Good advice, so I kept going... but watched for camping spots just in case it got dark before I made it.
The sun was setting, and the scenery was still breathtaking.
Reached Canmore Municipal Campground just before dark and found a spot for my tent.
I managed to set up my tent last night with only a small amount of light. It was pretty dark, so I couldn't see much of the surroundings. The next morning, I was surprised to find a few other travelers had camped near me.
Day 15: Canmore to Mountain View Farm Camping, Calgary.
Planned to reach Calgary and stay on the outskirts where most campsites were located. To avoid heavy traffic, I turned right onto a parallel road instead of the main highway. The scenery changed completely.. long, straight road through vast farmland.
Surprisingly, I climbed lots of hills and ended up in a residential area. Got lost several times following bike trails and getting mixed directions from locals. Tried to find a decent wild camping spot but nothing felt right. Getting dark, so I decided to head south on the main highway.
Later, I found a campsite a little off the highway and decided it would be perfect for the night. The owners initially wanted 40 dollars, but after some negotiation, we agreed on 28 dollars. The scenery was gradually changing from dense forests and mountains to vast farmland. After talking with people along the way and doing some research, I mentally prepared myself for crossing these huge open spaces.
Day 16: Mountain View Farm Camping, Calgary to Gleichen.
Perfect cycling conditions with wide shoulders. Had such a great time cycling the highway and passing through lovely small towns and villages.
I kept seeing countless brown crickets lined up along the white line on the road. At first it was a bit irritating, but eventually they became like traveling companions.
After a great day of riding, I reached Gleichen, a little town off the highway. Found this amazing free campsite right beside a police station. Saw some officers nearby and asked if I could camp there. They were really interested in hearing about my trip and shared information about the local area.
This campsite sits in the middle of beautiful farmland with incredible views. It also has free drinking water and a toilet. With plenty of daylight left, I had the perfect chance to enjoy the moment… cooking, having coffee, and exploring the area around me.
Day 17: Gleichen to Medicine Hat.
Slept well and started toward Medicine Hat in the morning. Amazing to think that after cycling for weeks already, I still had thousands of kilometers of similar scenery ahead.
There is something about these endless open lands that I absolutely love. Takes me right back to the Nullarbor, Australia!
After reaching this point, I thought about riding all the way to Medicine Hat. But I did not want to search for accommodation in the dark, so I looked for options in advance. While searching online, I found some amazing people from India. They were really excited and invited me to visit them once I got to Medicine Hat.
My eyes were truly mesmerized by the stunning landscape… it felt like pure magic!
What a day! It was such an incredible day of cycling! (208 km). As soon as I arrived in the city, I met my hosts who were incredibly welcoming. They took me to an Indian restaurant and asked if I preferred staying in a hotel room or camping. I decided to go for camping. After enjoying a delicious Indian meal, we visited the site where a new temple will be constructed. Initially, they allowed me to pitch my tent anywhere in the area, but later they suggested I camp inside the shelter. They even provided me with food and water for the night. A big thank you to the MHHA!
Day 18: Medicine Hat to Tompkins.
Welcome to Saskatchewan! The land of Living Skies…
John Woodward Campground, Tompkins
Day 19: Tompkins to Morse.
I was fortunate enough to be invited to breakfast by this family who are from the USA and are currently on their way to Banff for a vacation. They even gave me some snacks to take with me on my travels.
On my way to Morse…
I arrived at Morse and stumbled upon this lovely Municipal Camping ground right by the railway tracks. I decided to take a break and unwind, enjoying the evening with a cup of coffee after a refreshing warm shower. However, the weather suddenly took a turn for the worse, and a crazy rainstorm began.My tent was nearly blown away as I hurriedly moved to the closest shelter. I ended up spending the night there, seeking refuge from the powerful winds.
The next morning, I enjoyed breakfast before getting ready to pack up. I'm so grateful for this shelter, it has provided me with much-needed protection from the wind and rain. As I packed my belongings, I couldn't help but realize that my tent might not be strong enough for the upcoming weather conditions.
Day 20: Morse to Moose Jaw.
Salt lakes can be mistaken for snow-covered landscapes due to their striking resemblance.
After spotting an intriguing name, I made a detour to Chaplin, a quaint little town situated a short distance from the highway. During my visit, I came across a small grocery shop where I had the pleasure of meeting some friendly Punjabi truck drivers. We chatted about my travels and they kindly gifted me two packets of wraps and a big packet of bread. Although it was a bit of a struggle to fit everything into my bag, I was touched by their generosity and thanked them for their kind gesture.
Welcome to Moose Jaw!
During my journey, I had the pleasure of staying with this amazing couple who are known for hosting numerous cyclists passing through Moose Jaw. I had heard glowing reviews about them from fellow hosts and decided to contact them a day before I arrived. They graciously allowed me to set up my tent in their backyard and provided access to their kitchen and bathrooms. It was truly enjoyable to hear fascinating stories about other cyclists who had stayed with them and to browse their comments book. They treated me to delicious meals and served me a delightful cup of coffees.
Day 21: Moose Jaw to Regina.
How about taking a quick break and enjoying a cup of coffee at the deserted gas station?
When I left Moose Jaw, it happened to be a rainy day. Before hitting the highway, I decided to take some time and explore the surroundings of Moose Jaw.
My original plan was to find a free camping spot, but that didn't work out. Instead, I found myself at a dedicated camping site where I could charge my devices and catch up on some work. Unfortunately, it was a stormy night with pouring rain and strong winds. The rain somehow found its way inside, drenching my sleeping bag and a few other belongings. The next morning, I had to spend a good amount of time reorganizing and packing everything before I could leave the campsite.
Day 22: Regina to Grenfell.
The sky was quite dramatic just before the rain started.
Grenfell Recreational Park Campground. After yesterday's rain, I made the decision to leave my sleeping bag and mat out in the limited sunlight to dry. Unfortunately, my plan didn't quite work out, and I ended up sleeping on them in almost the same damp state. The washrooms under the management of the Grenfell community were really impressive.
Since I knew it was going to rain at night, I thought it would be a good idea to set up camp between the trees to shield myself from the strong winds.
Day 23: Grenfell to Manitoba Visitor Information Centre.
Wapela! Riding towards Manitoba province.
Welcome to Manitoba.
Manitoba Visitor Information Centre. This information center provides the opportunity for people to camp in their own backyard while having access to clean restrooms. When I got there in the early evening, I decided to take advantage of the situation and clean my bike.
After experiencing strong winds for a few days during my camping trip, I opted to set up my tent near the center for protection. However, I eventually shifted my tent to the grassy area, which turned out to be a remarkable evening with a beautiful sunset view.
Day 24: Manitoba Visitor Information Centre to Carberry.
Welcome to Elkhorn!
As I was approaching Brandon city, I experienced a flat tyre. Despite knowing that it could happen again, I managed to fix it. I had not changed my tyre since my trip to Australia, assuming that it was still good enough to ride for a few more kilometres. However, considering the remote area after Winnipeg, I decided to purchase a new tyre from Brandon. I found a big bike shop and bought a Shwalbe Marathon plus tyre. After that, I continued my journey towards Carberry.
Another flat tire, and this time it's the front one. While I was fixing it again, a dog sneaked up behind me and surprised me. She appeared tired and hungry, so she started going through my bags. I gave her some bread and water. Then I realized that she must have wandered away from a nearby farmhouse, and it was dangerous to leave her by the highway like that. I tried to lead her away from the road, but she insisted on following me. It broke my heart to leave her behind in that condition. So, I went to the next town, Verden, and got the contact number of the Animal Rescue Team. I shared the dog's photos and location with them. They spread the message through their local Facebook group and informed me about it. Later in the evening, I received a message from the rescue team saying that the owner had found the dog. It made me incredibly happy.
Arriving in Carberry in the evening, I looked for a spot to camp. Some locals suggested the Carberry Fairgrounds, but when I arrived, the gate was closed. However, I managed to sneak in from the other side and found a large area with no one around. I pitched my tent near the restrooms. Later that night, two people approached me and asked who gave me permission to camp there. I told them that I was from India and cycling across Canada. After hearing about my journey, they allowed me to stay and even gave me some advice on watching out for deer and local youths who visit the area at night for party. Thankfully, the night was uneventful.
Day 25: Carberry to Winnipeg.
As soon as I arrived in Portage la Prairie, I received a message from my host in Winnipeg. They provided me with detailed directions to reach their place.
Getting closer to Winnipeg city.
Day 26: Rest day - Winnipeg.
I made it to Winnipeg right before the rain started pouring down. They greeted me with a delicious dinner and we had a great time sharing stories about their bike trips. Knowing about the long and isolated stretch between Winnipeg and Thunderbay, I decided to take a rest day. During this break, I took the opportunity to recharge all my devices and give my bike a good cleaning. I also went out to buy some food items and reorganized my bags for the next leg of my adventure.
